Turkey 101
Why I Host Thanksgiving (and How I Finally Mastered the Turkey)
I love Christmas . Christmas is undeniably a magical time. But, no matter how hard you try to focus on its true meaning, the presents are such a distraction. And it’s a rushed holiday. Too much crammed into a day.
Which leads me to Thanksgiving, my favorite holiday.
Thanksgiving oozes “over the river and through the woods” —a cozy vibe that carries us through memory lane. It begs for leisure. The smell of the turkey roasting in the oven, apple cider warming on the stovetop, pies lined up on the sideboard and the Macy’s parade on the television. It’s a special day.
It’s also still Autumn, my favorite season. Which is why you won’t find a Christmas tree in my home until December, at least.
I feel like I was in training my entire childhood to host Thanksgiving. I learned early on how to roast a turkey, make stuffing, and set a table. I anticipated the day I would buy my first house and host our family. That happened in 1993.
We had a tiny house with a very compact kitchen. I am amazed I pulled off a big dinner in that little kitchen, and did for many years. But the dining room was a decent size. Our first year there we were too broke to afford a dining table, so we used a variety of card tables. It worked to hold us all, our grandparents included.
Then we made our first big purchase: a dining table, with extensions, and a hutch to hold our wedding china. The same set sits in our dining room today. When my husband’s grandmother died she left her china set to us. It’s a beautiful set from Germany with pink flowers edged in gold. I always use it on the holidays.
I have been hosting Thanksgiving since that first one, save a few years I was too busy with the bakery. Baking thousands of pies to help other families celebrate their holiday did consume me for the majority of November and interfered with hosting.
During the “dark years”, my mother was left to host. All I am going to say is that one year we had to call the fire department. (Mom, if you’re reading this, you know it happened!)
All kidding aside, my mother does a fabulous job. But, her holiday to host is Christmas and so, when we were able to hire employees and I wasn’t as inundated with bakery orders, I took my holiday back.
I’ve always hosted both sides of the family and that in and of itself made the holiday truly special. Nobody had to choose where to go.
Every year I put out a menu ahead of time, just to get us talking. My mom saves the menus and shares them with all her friends and family. She even shows her doctors.
Everyone gets so excited about coming for Thanksgiving. My sister even looks forward to the brie (and she hates brie). We have cocktails and charcuterie. I buffet the meal to have a lot of room at the table. We eat on our china with real napkins. Then, of course, we have a dessert buffet with pies, cake and cookies. We linger over coffee and play games. Last year I bought bingo with an old-fashioned wheel. Prizes included scratch off Lottery tickets. They were in high demand—the games were intense! I also send everyone home with their own Pumpkin pie so they can enjoy it for breakfast the next day like I do.
I think you get the picture why I love this holiday so much.
Yes, it’s a lot of work. But I do it because life is hard enough. If what I do can make one day magical and memorable—to me that’s a legacy I want to leave.
So when my family says “let’s just eat on paper plates”, I laugh and wave them away. We’ll be eating on the china as long as I am alive. Paper plates are for pizza.
So today, let’s talk turkey.
I have had some failures through the years.
There was the year my frozen turkey almost didn’t make it into the oven. But for the Grace of God, it did defrost and Thanksgiving was saved. (This was also the year the cat mauled the top of the turkey through the bag.)
Then there was the year my turkey was too small, and it was done way too early. I learned to go big after that. Big means leftovers.
One year we had an oven problem and had to finish cooking the sides on the outside grill. In a snowstorm that brought down one of our birch trees in the backyard no less.
Thankfully there have been no Christmas Vacation-like turkey fiascos other than the ones mentioned. Instead, I have had a lot of good luck with my turkeys. Except one.
I remember the year I bought my first fresh turkey. It was 2006 and my grandfather was still alive. We lived in a beautiful old home that we were restoring. Our dining room was gorgeous and easily held our long table, plus a kids’ table.
At that time, I was hobbying hard on cooking and baking. I was so excited to host Thanksgiving that year—the ultimate hostess holiday. I dreamt of a magazine-worthy turkey platter. The kind where the hostess floats into the dining room with a bird the size of a small state, all browned and glorious and surrounded by greenery. As she sets it down on the table, everyone “oohs and ahhs”. The head of the table begins to carve the turkey and mouths salivate when the juicy meat is revealed.
(I strive to romanticize my life so when you read that, pretend light music is playing in the background.)
For this dream to work we need:
A beautifully browned bird;
A juicy and flavorful bird;
A proficient carver.
Checkmark on the first of those. The other two —crash and burn.
Instead of the 19 cent per pound Butterball, I splurged on a Ho-Ka fresh turkey from our local butcher. I was young and inexperienced in the ways of fresh, expensive turkey. I had no idea fresh turkeys need to be brined. Clearly I was from the wrong side of the tracks.
When I placed that beautifully presented turkey in front of my husband to carve in front of everyone (his first time), I could not have known that it would experience a second butchering a lot less graceful than the first, and that everyone would pretend to enjoy the turkey, but wished I had just bought the Jennie-O on sale at the Dominick’s.
Actual photo of my husband attempting to carve said turkey. What is he doing exactly?
I blamed the bird. Fresh turkeys weren’t what they were cracked up to be apparently.
I didn’t buy a fresh turkey again for a long time. Like 18 years long.
But then 2024 rolled around and I was now in my era where I pay attention to how the meat I eat is raised, and culled. I wanted to try a fresh turkey again.
The year prior I brined my turkey. In researching the brining method, I discovered the reason for my previous fresh turkey fail all those years ago. Frozen turkeys are typically already “brined”—as they are injected with a salt solution. But fresh turkeys are not.
The brining process is necessary if you have a fresh turkey. It helps the turkey to retain moisture during cooking and results in flavorful meat. My failure to brine is what caused my turkey to be dry and flavorless.
I rolled up my sleeves and determined to course correct.
I bought a turkey that changed our view on fresh turkeys forever. I once again splurged on a fresh turkey—this one raised by Ferndale Farms. Instead of choosing between a wet and dry brine, I did both. Better safe than sorry.
The results were nothing short of spectacular.
Everyone raved. The turkey was beautifully browned using my grandma’s method of cooking the turkey. The skin was crispy due to the dry brine. It was moist and flavorful due to the wet brine.
I had nailed it.
Oh, and we carved it before serving.
As we went around the room saying grace and what we were thankful for, I said a small prayer for our turkey and thanks for a good turnout.
It was so good, in fact, that everyone requested to take home leftovers. Every year my mom laughs at me for buying a 22 pound turkey. Last year she said, “pass the containers” faster than I could find them.
I may go up to 30 pounds this year.
So, if you want to keep your turkey leftovers to yourself, I do not recommend that you follow this recipe. Also, beware, you may be committing yourself to hosting Thanksgiving for. . . .ever?
The Perfect Turkey Recipe
This recipe will help you perfectly brine and cook a turkey. You can use either a defrosted frozen turkey or a fresh turkey. If using a frozen turkey, ensure it is fully defrosted before brining. (Yes, I rinse my turkey well before brining, and then clean my sink well afterwards. Nothing bad happens.)
This brine is enough for a 20 (ish) pound turkey. If you need more brine, add more water.
Tuesday before Thanksgiving: Wet Brine
Brine Ingredients:
2 gallons cold water (divided)
2 C apple cider (or juice)
1 C brown sugar
1 1/2 C Kosher Salt (Diamond Crystal)
4 Bay leaves
6 Garlic cloves, crushed
2 T Peppercorns
Rosemary sprigs
Thyme sprigs
Sage leaves
1 Orange, peeled and sliced
1 Lemon, peeled and sliced
Wet Brine Directions:
In a large stockpot, bring one gallon of the water to a simmer. Add salt and brown sugar, stirring until dissolved. Add aromatics: bay leaves, garlic, peppercorns, rosemary, thyme, sage, and the citrus peels. Simmer 15 minutes.
Remove from heat. Add apple cider and remaining water. Cool water temperature to a safe 40 degrees before adding to turkey. This takes longer than you think—You can add ice if needed.
Place rinsed turkey into a large container or brining bag. Pour cooled brine over turkey. Add the sliced citrus. The brine needs to cover turkey so add more water if needed.
Refrigerate 1 hour per pound of turkey and no more (to prevent mushy turkey).
Wednesday before Thanksgiving:
Dry Brine Directions:
After the turkey has wet brined for the appropriate amount of time per pound, rinse it well and pat dry.
Place turkey on platter or in a turkey pan, and place it into the refrigerator uncovered.
Allow to dry brine for several hours to overnight in order to sufficiently dry the skin so it will be crisp when cooked.
Thanksgiving Day
(I stuff my turkey because it gives it amazing flavor. But this recipe still works if you decide not to stuff.)
Cooking Ingredients:
2 sticks butter, softened
Rosemary, chopped
Thyme, chopped
Sage, chopped
Salt
Pepper
Chicken or Turkey Stock
Additional ingredients to flavor gravy (see below)
Cooking Directions:
Preheat oven to 500 degrees.
If stuffing the bird, it’s typically better to do that first. Salt inside of cavity then add stuffing. Stuff with some extra pads of butter.
If leaving unstuffed, fill cavity with some herbs and citrus pieces for flavor.
Make an herb butter with the softened butter and herbs by mixing together with a fork. Add salt and pepper. You be the judge on amounts. I add a good bit.
Rub butter all over the turkey, including under the skin.
Season the top well with more salt and pepper.
Secure wings and legs with twine.
Place 4 to 6 cups stock in the bottom of the pan. Since this will be the gravy base, I add some of the following to make a rich broth: chicken bouillon, butter, carrots, celery, onion, turkey neck and organs. Also, I buy extra legs and add those as well.
Place turkey in oven uncovered for 20 minutes.
Reduce heat to 350 degrees and cover roasting pan. If you don’t have a lid, use foil. (Some people use cheesecloth, I did that one year and it failed).
Baste every hour. This is about the experience as well as for the turkey’s success. As you open the oven, everyone comes to help.
Keep an eye on the broth. If you need extra stock or water, add some.
Follow the directions for your turkey’s time in the oven on the package it comes wrapped in. It is usually pretty accurate. If you don’t have a thermometer, as it nears done the leg will pull away.
Uncover and allow to finish browning.
Remove from the oven and keep covered for at least thirty minutes before carving.
Use the broth to make gravy.
Happy Thanksgiving!